Caring for your skin’s unique needs doesn’t have to be confusing. DailyOM spoke with experts to find out what ingredients and products, both tried-and-true and up-and-coming, are best for keeping your skin looking fabulous in your 40s and beyond.
If it’s been a minute since you updated your skincare routine, now’s a good time — thanks to science. Today’s amazing formulations, using a smart combo of nourishing and active ingredients, will keep you shining your brightest for decades to come.
When it comes to supporting your skin in your 40s and up, the experts we spoke to suggest focusing your efforts on hydration, evening out tone, keeping your skin barrier protected and healthy, reducing the appearance of fine lines and imperfections if you wish, and — of course — staying sun safe. Here’s what to know.
What Happens to Our Skin in Our 40s and Beyond?
As we age, our skin produces less collagen (which keeps skin looking smooth) and elastin (you guessed it — elastin provides that bouncy elasticity), explains Hadley King, MD, a board certified dermatologist whom DailyOM spoke with for this story. This, along with other age-related changes, means our skin is typically dryer, thinner, and more fragile than when we were younger.
Cosmetic dermatologist Heidi A. Waldorf, MD, tells DailyOM that fine lines on the brow, forehead, and around our eyes, which used to be visible only with movement, become constant and our undereye area may appear darker (since blood vessels are more visible through thinner skin).
And for those of us who fantasized about kissing breakouts goodbye once we hit our middle years, not so fast, says Michele Koo, MD, a board-certified plastic surgeon and founder of Dr. Koo Private Practice. “Blemishes and acne can occur at any point of our lives,” she tells DailyOM, but can really flare up during adolescence, times of stress, and the perimenopausal period.
That doesn’t mean we don’t look totally gorgeous, but our skincare needs do change as we get older. Vibrant, healthy skin requires plenty of moisture, protection from the elements, and gentle but effective exfoliation using active ingredients.
Interested in learning more? Check out Anti-Aging Face Yoga
Choosing the Right Skincare Ingredients for You
Using simple, at-home methods to care for our skin can make a major difference. In fact, Dr. Koo says skincare is the No. 1 intervention we have at our disposal.
Though it’s hard to resist all the awesome products we see on #skintok, we don’t have to spend a fortune or go through an elaborate routine, says Dr. Waldorf. “Find a well-balanced regimen that works for your skin and your schedule, because the most expensive, least effective product is one that sits in your medicine cabinet unused. The key is to listen to your skin, and if you have questions, speak with your dermatologist.”
If you were to ask the experts to name their one “cannot skip” skin care product, it would be sunscreen by a mile.
Board-certified physician/anesthesiologist Azza Halim, MD, agrees it’s important to be in touch with what your skin is asking for. She says everyone’s skin is in constant turnover, so tailor your approach to what your skin needs at this moment, then switch it up when it requires something different.
The 8 Best Skincare Ingredients for Your 40s
Below are the eight most impactful ingredients that dermatologists say are ideal for your 40s and beyond.
1. Retinol
“Other than sunscreen, retinoids [vitamin A derivatives] are the ingredient with the most data for improving signs of skin aging,” Waldorf says. Retinol is helpful in treating fine lines and hyperpigmentation (the discoloration of the skin that often appears as dark spots or patches), and smoothing out rough, uneven texture. Another reason derms are such fans of this multitasking superstar: Retinol unclogs pores and reduces breakouts.
You can find both prescription-strength and less potent over-the-counter retinol products. No matter the formulation, retinol may cause peeling and burning, especially as your skin acclimates to the ingredient, so start off using it a few nights a week rather than every night. Don’t apply retinol in the morning, as the ingredient makes you more sun sensitive. (And for those with sensitive skin who find retinol too irritating, ask your derm if they’d suggest a bakuchiol serum or other bakuchiol-infused product. Bakuchiol is a plant extract that offers retinol-like benefits with less potential for stinging and other side effects.)
Dermatologist-Recommended Retinol Products
- Alastin Skincare Renewal Retinol
- Herbivore Moon Fruit 1% Bakuchiol + Peptides Retinol Alternative Serum (contains bakuchiol, not retinol)
- Kiehl’s Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptide
- OLAY Regenerist Retinol 24 MAX Face Moisturizer
- Pond’s Rejuveness Advanced Hydrating Night Cream
- RoC Retinol Correxion Anti-Aging Wrinkle Night Serum
- SkinBetter Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream
- ZO Skin Health Retinol Skin Brightener
2. Vitamin C
Board-certified dermatologist Mara Weinstein Velez, MD, tells DailyOM that the antioxidant vitamin C is “fantastic for brightening and helping to keep hyperpigmentation under control.” Research shows that vitamin C can reduce the appearance of sun damage, can reduce dark undereye circles, and may help with breakouts, too. Use a vitamin C serum or cream in the morning, followed by moisturizer, and then sunscreen.
Dermatologist-Recommended Vitamin C Products
- Belif Aqua Bomb Brightening Vitamin C Cream
- CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum
- InnBeauty Project Green Machine Serum with Vitamin C + Superfoods
- Korres Apothecary Wild Rose 15% Vitamin C Spotless Serum
- La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Serum
- SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Serum
- Versed Vacation Eyes Brightening Eye Gel
3. Niacinamide
Dr. King raves about niacinamide, aka vitamin B3, calling it a “great multitasking ingredient” that “just about everyone” should use. Niacinamide has been shown to even skin tone and texture, reduce fine lines, improve skin elasticity, and treat skin discoloration and melasma (a form of hyperpigmentation).
Wait, there’s more! King says niacinamide brightens skin by fading hyperpigmentation and reducing redness; helps improve moisture retention; controls oil; and is a good choice for all sorts of skin concerns such as acne and eczema.
You can find this potent antioxidant in all kinds of skin care products from cleansers to sunscreens. It can be combined safely with other topical ingredients such as your retinols and vitamin C.
Dermatologist-Recommended Niacinamide Products
- Acure Radically Rejuvenating Niacinamide Serum
- Fenty Skin Watch Ya Tone Niacinamide Dark Spot Serum
- Half Magic Dew Lock
- ISDIN Isdinceutics Melaclear Advanced
- Naturium Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée 3%
- Neutrogena Hydro Boost+ Niacinamide Serum
- Peach & Lily Wild Dew Treatment Essence
4. Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid (HA), like niacinamide, is helpful for calming redness and increasing skin’s hydration, says Dr. Weinstein Velez. (HA has been shown to reduce the appearance of skin imperfections, too.) Though it has acid in its name, it’s actually quite gentle and a wonder ingredient for attracting moisture to your skin.
You can use it in the morning or look for an overnight moisturizer or sunscreen with hyaluronic acid; find it in other serums, cleaners, and creams; or even pair your HA with retinol, either by seeking out a product that contains both or applying a hyaluronic acid serum before retinol to keep skin moisturized. In short, it’s nearly impossible to go wrong by using this fan- and derm-favorite ingredient.
Dermatologist-Recommended Hyaluronic Acid Products
- 4.5.6 Skin Méla Skin Reset Biomimetic Essence
- Bobbi Brown Vitamin Enriched Face Base
- CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum
- e.l.f. Skin Holy Hydration Face Cream – Fragrance Free
- Erno Laszlo Extra Dry Skin Supplement Essence
- La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum
- Vichy Minéral 89 Fortifying and Hydrating Daily Skin Booster
5. Caffeine
Yep, caffeine, the same ingredient that perks you up in the a.m., can temporarily perk up your skin, too. It may help reduce the appearance of sun damage and give skin a tightening up, which is why the use of caffeine as an ingredient in cosmetic formulations is on the rise overall.
"Caffeine from coffee beans is fabulous as an antioxidant” and anti-aging ingredient, says Koo, and particularly effective when used in eye creams. (The expert says that although more research is needed, preliminary data has shown that the topical use of caffeine may have sunscreen-like effects on the skin, fighting the formation of UVB-induced skin cancers.) Pick up a caffeine-infused eye cream to perk up your eye area and reduce puffiness in the morning.
Dermatologist-Recommended Caffeine Products
- Bioderma Sensibio Eye
- Colleen Rothschild Illuminating Tinted Eye Cream
- Dr. Koo Private Practice Replenishing Eye Serum
- The Inkey List Caffeine Eye Cream
- Klairs Fundamental Eye Awakening Gel
- Neutrogena Hydro Boost+ Caffeine Eye Gel Cream
6. Ceramides
Ceramides help keep our skin barrier healthy and moisturized and offer an “overall improvement in skin texture and appearance,” explains King. Ceramides have been shown to be not only super gentle, even around the delicate area of the eyes, but to offer skin hydration for up to 24 hours and to have a protective effect on skin by reducing water loss and decreasing skin irritation.
There’s really no time not to use nourishing ceramides. They’re such a staple with so many benefits, so look for them in your cleansers, sunscreens, moisturizers, and more.
Dermatologist-Recommended Ceramide Products
- AHC Aqualuronic Emulsion
- Avène TriXéra Nutrition Nutri-Fluid Balm
- COSRX Balancium Comfort Ceramide Cream
- Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Eye Cream with Niacinamide
- EltaMD PM Therapy Facial Moisturizer
- Glow Recipe Avocado Ceramide Recovery Serum
7. Peptides
Peptides naturally occur in our skin, encouraging it to produce collagen. King says some forms of topical peptides produce a “Botox-like effect” that inhibits wrinkles, while other peptides have been shown to act like growth factors, stimulating our skin cells to turn over more quickly so we look rested, refreshed, and all-around glowy.
There are great lotions, serums, and toners made with peptides, like the ones below, that work in tandem with other helpful ingredients to keep skin looking its best. Another enjoyable way to work peptides into your routine is by spritzing yourself with a peptide-containing facial mist for a midday — or anytime — refresh.
Dermatologist-Recommended Peptide Products
- Bliss Bright Idea Vitamin C + Tri-Peptide Collagen Protecting & Brightening Serum
- Ghost Democracy Peptide-Packed Dewy Toning Mist
- The Ordinary “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% Serum
- OLAY Collagen Peptide 24 MAX Eye Cream
- RoC Skin Care Multi Correxion Revive + Glow Eye Balm
- Youth to the People Adaptogen Soothe + Hydrate Activated Mist with Peptides
8. Sunscreen
If you were to ask the experts to name their single “cannot skip” skin care product, it would be sunscreen by a mile. “[It’s] my No. 1 pick to help maintain healthy skin,” says Weinstein Velez. “Making sure that your skin is protected will help to ensure your collagen is safe and pigmentation is under control.”
Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher, per the American Academy of Dermatology, and wear it year-round. Yes, even on cloudy days, and yes, even if you’re going to be indoors, since UV rays can penetrate glass windows.
Beyond that, there are all sorts of elegant sunscreen formulations that sink into your skin and offer additional skin-boosting benefits to further nourish and hydrate — ones that offer a light tint, control oil, and more — so choose based on what you want your sunscreen to do for you.
Dermatologist-Recommended Face Sunscreen Products
- Eucerin Sun Age Defense SPF 50 Face Sunscreen Lotion
- ISDIN Eryfotona Actinica Daily Mineral SPF 50+ Sunscreen
- MARA Sea Kale Sunscreen Sérum SPF 30
- MDSolarSciences Gleam + Glow SPF 50
- Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hyaluronic Acid Moisturizer SPF 50
- Tower 28 SunnyDays SPF 30 Tinted Sunscreen
The Best Skin Care Routine for Your 40s and Up
The experts stress that each of us has unique skin care needs and beauty goals, so finding the right routine for you — and your budget — is key. Some of us find a multistep skin care regimen — using a cleanser, toner, or essence; a serum or two; a cream; and an oil — a form of pampering self-care (and love adding in gua sha and face yoga, too). Others want maximum effectiveness with minimal steps.
No matter what other ingredients you’re working with, a basic morning regimen starts with a gentle cleanser that “leaves skin feeling soft and supple, not tight,” says Waldorf. Follow with a serum or cream with moisturizing ingredients and vitamin C, and then a sunscreen.
In the evening, cleanse (or double cleanse, if you prefer) to remove dirt, oil, makeup, sunscreen, and environmental pollution, and then end with your retinols, alpha hydroxy acids, and/or nighttime moisturizers.
Editor-Approved Facial Cleansers
- Banila Co. Clean it Zero Cleansing Balm Brightening + Banila Co. Clean it Zero Brightening Peeling Gel (for a double cleanse)
- Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser
- DHC Deep Cleansing Oil
- Odacité le Blue Balm Repair Balm (pair with the Odacité Cryo-Tech Facial Tool for a cooling, depuffing facial massage)
- Vanicream Gentle Facial Cleanser
The Necessity of Moisturizing
Though moisturizing may seem optional, the experts say that moisturizing our skin, both face and body, is an essential step, whether you’re prone to skin that’s dry, oily, or somewhere in between. Think of applying creams and lotions much the same way you do brushing your teeth. It’s an important step to maintain your health — in this case, the health of your skin.
“Our skin ages much slower the more protected, nourished, and hydrated it is,” explains Koo.
Is Skin Cycling Helpful in Your 40s and Beyond?
If you’re not already up on the #skincycling trend (the term was coined by New York–based dermatologist Dr. Whitney Bowe), it’s “a method of rotating your nighttime skin care routine in order to get the benefits of exfoliation and retinoids” while reducing irritation by incorporating recovery nights into the rotation, says King, and yes — it can be a great way to balance active ingredients with nourishing ones so your skin gets exfoliating and renewing benefits without drying out.
“Skin cycling has different definitions for different people,” adds Dr. Halim. “It’s similar to how we exercise. If we focus on the same repetitive muscle groups and routine, then we are not challenging our physique. Our skin needs to be challenged.”
To start skin cycling, on night one of your routine, apply a chemical exfoliator, like a product containing an alpha hydroxy acid (glycolic and lactic acid are the most common AHAs), a salicylic acid (BHA), or a polyhydroxy acid (PHA). The next night, use a retinol. Then, on nights three and four, take a break from active ingredients and use a gentle, replenishing moisturizer to keep skin calm and soothed and maintain a healthy skin barrier.
Editor-Approved Chemical Exfoliator–Containing Products
- Cutocin Weekly Rendezvous Exfoliator
- Farmacy Deep Sweep 2% BHA Pore Cleaning Toner with Moringa + Papaya
- L’Oréal Paris Revitalift 10% Pure Glycolic Acid Serum
- Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel
- Replenix Glycolic Acid 10% Resurfacing Cream
- Sunday Riley Good Genes All-in-One Lactic Acid Treatment
Don’t Neglect Your Body
Unfortunately, people frequently skip moisturizing after bathing, but “it’s so incredibly important,” stresses Weinstein Velez. She suggests finding a cream that’s easy to apply and fast absorbing so you’ll be more apt to use it post-shower.
Be aware that the skin on our neck and chest is thin and lacks oil production, Halim says, so it requires plenty of moisture and sunscreen.
Dermatologist-Recommended Body Washes and Body Lotions
- Alaffia EveryDay Shea Body Wash – Lavender
- Aquaphor Healing Balm Stick
- Aveeno Skin Relief Body Wash
- Cetaphil Intensive Healing Lotion with Ceramides
- Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte’s Magic Body Cream
- Curél Hydra Therapy Wet Skin Moisturizer
- Eucerin Daily Hydration Gel Cream
Supporting 40+ Skin Inside and Out
No one is expecting, or wants, our 40-something faces to look exactly the same as they did at 20. We’ve earned those lovely laugh lines from years of smiling, living, and loving, and the natural aging process is going to impact our skin, just like it impacts our bodies.
Caring for our skin is simply part of caring for our bodies overall: a form of self-care that makes us look and feel like the beauties we are.
